Friday, March 7, 2014

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu
We drove from Cosco to Ollantaytambo the next morning we took the train to Aguas Calientes and from there the bus to the entrance of Machu Picchu. 
We got there before 9am. So no crowds jet and a blue sky so all the peaks were visible. What an experience, I have seen lots of pictures and films about Matchu Picchu but to walk the ground and be surrounded by all these peaks and ancient buildings is an experience of its own and hard to describe. Mabel your item is safe behind a rock. After lunch we had a guided tour but we all knew a lot about the place. We all got a little sunburn and in the afternoon we had heavy showers, got back to our campers at 9pm. And today we are back in Cusco. I have a s
Brenda and Hendrik from Salmon Arm

Add caption

Another item off my bucket list

Plaza de Armas in Agua Calientes
ensitive tooth so went to the dentist, apparently quite a common occurrence at this altitude.  
I am now on Amoxidel and hope to have no further problems. Norbert took the BlueWonder to have the brakes checked and possibly find someone who can do an alignment on her. The brakes are now replaced and the alignment done, we will stay one more day in Cusco and then head south.
Big Hug to All
Norbert and Greti

Add caption

Gabriel on the rite hails from Switzerland and the Inca princess from Machu Picchu

mirror pools

Add caption

At the entrance to Machu Picchu

Cusco

March1st. 2014
Drove from Hanuco to Tarma.
Tarma is the pearl of the Andes, and from a distance and in the dark it looked very nice. In the morning it was a different story, but we did get all the supplys we needed. Manfred got his air filter and Norbert bolts to reinstall the running board.  Stocked up on groceries and we were off at noon and drove to Mariscal Caseres. There are a lot of road closures and the wait is usually about one hour. Perfect time for Norbert to chat to the other drivers, and without fail a show of the camper. The next day we drove through Huancayo to Ayacucho. Again bad roads and washouts. So 180 km. took us 8 hours. On the way we met Tobias from Portland Oregon on his bicycle. He is touring Peru by bike and sometime other transportation. We stopped and invited him for lunch. What a brave young man. Stopped at the first wheel alignment place as the Blue Wonder needed an alignment. We asked about a Closed parking and were told we could stay right here, the lady took me to the market were I got wonderful fruit and vegetables. Also had use of her washing machine which was badly needed after we worked two days in the mud.
Today carnival started here so we went in to town, but it was very noisy and tons of people, the parade was to start at 10 am. And by 1pm. It finally started. Very colourful.
Drove from Ayacucho to Abancay, a total of 400 km. and it took us 12 hours of driving. The first 300 km. were paved but the last 90 km. were switchbacks and potholes. Shortly before Abancay an older farmer waved us down thinking we were a micro bus so we gave him a ride to town, he knew a hotel with a big parking lot and guided us there, that was a big help as by now it was very late.
We are now in Cusco, did all the arrangements for the trip to Machu Picchu. Not that easy,  as we can not drive up to Aguas Calientes as the bridge washed out one month ago. So the only way is by train. Cusco is a wonderful place and more time is needed to explore. We are at the only campground in Cusco and had a hard time finding it, our GPS always wanted to send us off a cliff and the streets here are very narrow and steep. None of the taxies knew where the place was and we only had co-ordinates and no address. At the end a tour operator guided us there.
We were surprised to see a BC  Camper Van there which was shipped from Panama at the same time as ours. Hendrick and Brenda are from Salmon Arm BC and will join us on the trip to Machu Picchu. 
Laundry in Ayacucho

Tobias from Oregon.

There always is a way to pass

Norbert chatting with the drivers while we wait for the road to open.




loking down on Cusco

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Over the Mountains we go.

We figured that if thy can come up we can go down

Preparing for the decent.

Here we go

Greti stepped out to see how close we are to the edge
Blelieve me the road will inprove, 

Do we need chains? 5 different opninions.

Yes we do need them.
Not another washout, I have no promises left.


Our guide has never seen tire chains befotre
February 23/24 
We left Huaraz in the morning with the intent to drive route 3 over La Union to Hanuko. It was raining and we were warned to watch out for rock or mud slides.
Along the way we encountered a few wash outs but nothing too bad.
Arriving at La Union we were told that the bridge was washed out and will be repaired in 4 days. Option one is to return to Huaraz, but we already had crossed some washouts and muddy roads we did not like this option and Norbert does not like to retrace his steps. Option 2 is to take the mountain path to some village and from there  there is a road to Huanuco. So off we went on option 2. 
Already the road (path) out of the village was very muddy but we were assured it would improve further up. It did improve for a stretch and when we asked for further directions we were told that the road over the mountain is very bad and dangerous and we should turn back. So we did turn back. Just before we reached the village we met a young man with wife and 2 donkeys  and after we told him how far we had gone up the mountain, he said we were almost at the highway and we should go back as it is perfectly safe. He offered to pick up his motorbike and guide us to the highway. So we turned around and followed him to his place and from there he started out ahead of us.
Begin of nightmare.
The path kept getting smaller and muddier and steeper.  We went way further than we did the first time but no semblance of even a decent path, and he kept saying just a little further. We finally had to put an the chains, well that was a novelty. We passed one little village and that was also covered in mud, and people were laughing  
When thy saw us. 
We finally reached the top of the mountain and our guide had to go back as it was getting dark but he assured us it would only be another 30 minutes to a decent road.
And with that he was gone. The path was now better so we took the chains off.
We went on for another half hour and when we came to a turn we could not see were the path went as by now it was completely dark. There was a little hut and a man came out and assured us it was fine to park to the side of the path. We did and had a little bite to eat and tried to sleep. All nite we listened to the rain and knew the paths would be worse in the morning. Thy were. The rain had stopped so we waited a while in the hope that the path would dry a little. The lady from the hut came to us with a pail and 4 cups and offered us breakfast. I explained that we do have a stove to cook and already had eaten, but I was touched by her generosity, so I gave her the Alpaca wool I had bought in Ecuador. 
We decided that Manfred drive ahead of us so if we get stuck he could tow us out.
The Blue Wonder started sliding right away so we put the chains on again and made it down the hill. It is hard to describe the condition of the roads but at all critical moments there were people to help, at one point we hat 6 young man pushing and shovelling a path for the front wheels. The last hill Norbert could do nothing else but go for it, we lost the running board in the process but he made it to the bottom.
Just when we wanted to take the chains off as the road improved, we came to a mudslide in progress, so Norbert gunned it and we made it trough. I am sure we were the last car for some time to pass there.
Finally the road became firmer and dryer and we could take the chains off. When in the afternoon we did reach the highway you can imagine the relieve, first thing we did is go to a Lavadero (car wash) as we had a ton of mud stuck to the car.
Now I will have to live for another 50 years to fulfill all the promises I made to every saint in the universe if we made it out safe. 
Hugs to all
Norbert and Greti
   

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Feb.18/19

We arrived in Huanchaco  at noon,   it is a little seaside town and very popular with surfers, so lots of young people from around the world here. Found a Motel with camping in the back, there were two campers from France, Monique and Pierre's daughter lives in North  Vancouver. Thy started their journey in Uruguay and are headed north. Did some laundry and shopping then went for a walk along the beach and who should we see parked right on the promenade? Manfred and Monika.
Turns out when we lost them their cooling fan belt had broken, lucky it was right next to a mechanical shop but it took 2 hours to repair. So now thy are parked next to us again. Also met Victor and Elvira from Ontario, thy are staying in the Motel here, and today thy took us to the local market and Elvira cooked us a very nice fish soup, and after lunch we took the chicken bus  in to Trujillo, what a ride. Trujillo has a very nice historical part of town and Victor and Elvira took us to see the sights. Norbert did get a part for the Blue Wonder just in case.

Trujillo to LaPampa
Visited the museum and ruins of Huacas de Moche. One of the best museums so fat. The ruins were very interesting as we had a very knowledgeable guide
We arrived in La Pampa ( 10 shacks along the road) and met Mari and Bernard from France in a huge home built camper on a mercedes truck, built like a fort. The 3 of us spent the nite in an empty lot and had a good nite. We all got bitten by no seeums or some kind of bug, Bernard Monika and Norbert have at least 50 bites on their legs. I wore long sleeves and pants and socks so I only got bitten on my hands.
This morning we started out at intervals, as it is a gravel road and no one wants to eat dust. We drove along the Rio Santa and through Canion De Pato. The cliffs and sheer granite walls are humbling and aw inspiring.   
Here you can see the force of nature. We drove through 38 tunnels of various lengths and one single lane all the way. I find it scary to enter a pitch black tunnel of single lane not knowing if at the same time a truck enters at the other end. The only warning is that you honk your horn before entering.
Half way through the tunnels we had a flat rear tire but that was fixed in 20 minutes. We did have to buy a new tire and lucky that in Caraz one store had the tire we needed. We are now in Huaraz in a public parking
Lot were we will spent the nite.
Hugs to all
Norbert and Greti
Our new friends Victor and Elvira

Pierre and Monique fron France

Two families asking questions about our travels.

Makes you feel very small indeed.

Add caption

Here at least I can see that the tunnel in clear.

Hopefully no opposite traffic

the Blue Wonder is small.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Feb. 18

February 18.
We left Cajamarca at 8:30 and our plan was to drive inland to Huaraz. 
Very shortly after leaving town we lost Manfred and Monica. We waited a while and figured thy decided to visit some of the archeological sites so we drove on.
There was lots of road repair and some closures, talking to some men who work for a Canadian mining company we were advised not to take the inland route asthe road is in very bad shape and if you break down it is a very long time before help arrives. So we decided to play it safe and head for Trujillo.
Along the way Norbert had the front end of the van greased wile we had lunsh.
About 2 hours later we felt a vibration and Norbert figured it had to do with the driveshaft. We still had to climb up to14,000 feet and needless to say that we were both very tense as there is no shoulder to pull off and we were in dense fog. Norbert concentrated on the driveshaft and I on intense prayer. We made it to Otuzco and are now at a gas station with a mechanical shop. Sure enough, the universal joint was gone. As we could not get the correct replacement part the mechanic fixed ours with used parts he had around. The Blue Wonder is as good as new. We are now 12 km. north of Trujillo called Huanchaco. At motel and camping Gardens with two french campers. Will do some cleaning laundry and shopping before we head south. Have not headr from Monika and Manfred since we lost them shortly after Cajamarca. Hope to meet up with them again.
Hugs to all.
Norbert and Greti. 
I wish Norbert could see the drop off from my point of view.


Driveshaft 

Ceasar fixing the Universal joint

ready to go again