Saturday, March 1, 2014

Over the Mountains we go.

We figured that if thy can come up we can go down

Preparing for the decent.

Here we go

Greti stepped out to see how close we are to the edge
Blelieve me the road will inprove, 

Do we need chains? 5 different opninions.

Yes we do need them.
Not another washout, I have no promises left.


Our guide has never seen tire chains befotre
February 23/24 
We left Huaraz in the morning with the intent to drive route 3 over La Union to Hanuko. It was raining and we were warned to watch out for rock or mud slides.
Along the way we encountered a few wash outs but nothing too bad.
Arriving at La Union we were told that the bridge was washed out and will be repaired in 4 days. Option one is to return to Huaraz, but we already had crossed some washouts and muddy roads we did not like this option and Norbert does not like to retrace his steps. Option 2 is to take the mountain path to some village and from there  there is a road to Huanuco. So off we went on option 2. 
Already the road (path) out of the village was very muddy but we were assured it would improve further up. It did improve for a stretch and when we asked for further directions we were told that the road over the mountain is very bad and dangerous and we should turn back. So we did turn back. Just before we reached the village we met a young man with wife and 2 donkeys  and after we told him how far we had gone up the mountain, he said we were almost at the highway and we should go back as it is perfectly safe. He offered to pick up his motorbike and guide us to the highway. So we turned around and followed him to his place and from there he started out ahead of us.
Begin of nightmare.
The path kept getting smaller and muddier and steeper.  We went way further than we did the first time but no semblance of even a decent path, and he kept saying just a little further. We finally had to put an the chains, well that was a novelty. We passed one little village and that was also covered in mud, and people were laughing  
When thy saw us. 
We finally reached the top of the mountain and our guide had to go back as it was getting dark but he assured us it would only be another 30 minutes to a decent road.
And with that he was gone. The path was now better so we took the chains off.
We went on for another half hour and when we came to a turn we could not see were the path went as by now it was completely dark. There was a little hut and a man came out and assured us it was fine to park to the side of the path. We did and had a little bite to eat and tried to sleep. All nite we listened to the rain and knew the paths would be worse in the morning. Thy were. The rain had stopped so we waited a while in the hope that the path would dry a little. The lady from the hut came to us with a pail and 4 cups and offered us breakfast. I explained that we do have a stove to cook and already had eaten, but I was touched by her generosity, so I gave her the Alpaca wool I had bought in Ecuador. 
We decided that Manfred drive ahead of us so if we get stuck he could tow us out.
The Blue Wonder started sliding right away so we put the chains on again and made it down the hill. It is hard to describe the condition of the roads but at all critical moments there were people to help, at one point we hat 6 young man pushing and shovelling a path for the front wheels. The last hill Norbert could do nothing else but go for it, we lost the running board in the process but he made it to the bottom.
Just when we wanted to take the chains off as the road improved, we came to a mudslide in progress, so Norbert gunned it and we made it trough. I am sure we were the last car for some time to pass there.
Finally the road became firmer and dryer and we could take the chains off. When in the afternoon we did reach the highway you can imagine the relieve, first thing we did is go to a Lavadero (car wash) as we had a ton of mud stuck to the car.
Now I will have to live for another 50 years to fulfill all the promises I made to every saint in the universe if we made it out safe. 
Hugs to all
Norbert and Greti
   

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Feb.18/19

We arrived in Huanchaco  at noon,   it is a little seaside town and very popular with surfers, so lots of young people from around the world here. Found a Motel with camping in the back, there were two campers from France, Monique and Pierre's daughter lives in North  Vancouver. Thy started their journey in Uruguay and are headed north. Did some laundry and shopping then went for a walk along the beach and who should we see parked right on the promenade? Manfred and Monika.
Turns out when we lost them their cooling fan belt had broken, lucky it was right next to a mechanical shop but it took 2 hours to repair. So now thy are parked next to us again. Also met Victor and Elvira from Ontario, thy are staying in the Motel here, and today thy took us to the local market and Elvira cooked us a very nice fish soup, and after lunch we took the chicken bus  in to Trujillo, what a ride. Trujillo has a very nice historical part of town and Victor and Elvira took us to see the sights. Norbert did get a part for the Blue Wonder just in case.

Trujillo to LaPampa
Visited the museum and ruins of Huacas de Moche. One of the best museums so fat. The ruins were very interesting as we had a very knowledgeable guide
We arrived in La Pampa ( 10 shacks along the road) and met Mari and Bernard from France in a huge home built camper on a mercedes truck, built like a fort. The 3 of us spent the nite in an empty lot and had a good nite. We all got bitten by no seeums or some kind of bug, Bernard Monika and Norbert have at least 50 bites on their legs. I wore long sleeves and pants and socks so I only got bitten on my hands.
This morning we started out at intervals, as it is a gravel road and no one wants to eat dust. We drove along the Rio Santa and through Canion De Pato. The cliffs and sheer granite walls are humbling and aw inspiring.   
Here you can see the force of nature. We drove through 38 tunnels of various lengths and one single lane all the way. I find it scary to enter a pitch black tunnel of single lane not knowing if at the same time a truck enters at the other end. The only warning is that you honk your horn before entering.
Half way through the tunnels we had a flat rear tire but that was fixed in 20 minutes. We did have to buy a new tire and lucky that in Caraz one store had the tire we needed. We are now in Huaraz in a public parking
Lot were we will spent the nite.
Hugs to all
Norbert and Greti
Our new friends Victor and Elvira

Pierre and Monique fron France

Two families asking questions about our travels.

Makes you feel very small indeed.

Add caption

Here at least I can see that the tunnel in clear.

Hopefully no opposite traffic

the Blue Wonder is small.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Feb. 18

February 18.
We left Cajamarca at 8:30 and our plan was to drive inland to Huaraz. 
Very shortly after leaving town we lost Manfred and Monica. We waited a while and figured thy decided to visit some of the archeological sites so we drove on.
There was lots of road repair and some closures, talking to some men who work for a Canadian mining company we were advised not to take the inland route asthe road is in very bad shape and if you break down it is a very long time before help arrives. So we decided to play it safe and head for Trujillo.
Along the way Norbert had the front end of the van greased wile we had lunsh.
About 2 hours later we felt a vibration and Norbert figured it had to do with the driveshaft. We still had to climb up to14,000 feet and needless to say that we were both very tense as there is no shoulder to pull off and we were in dense fog. Norbert concentrated on the driveshaft and I on intense prayer. We made it to Otuzco and are now at a gas station with a mechanical shop. Sure enough, the universal joint was gone. As we could not get the correct replacement part the mechanic fixed ours with used parts he had around. The Blue Wonder is as good as new. We are now 12 km. north of Trujillo called Huanchaco. At motel and camping Gardens with two french campers. Will do some cleaning laundry and shopping before we head south. Have not headr from Monika and Manfred since we lost them shortly after Cajamarca. Hope to meet up with them again.
Hugs to all.
Norbert and Greti. 
I wish Norbert could see the drop off from my point of view.


Driveshaft 

Ceasar fixing the Universal joint

ready to go again



Feb. 17




February 17
From Chachapoyas we drove to Leimebamba were we spent the nite parked in the town square, a bit noisy. Next day we drove to Celedin a distance of 150 km. and it took us 8 hours. The route is over 3 mountain passes and is one single lane, tons of hairpin turns. I could not believe that there was two way traffic. To top it off there were signs saying " slow traffic keep right." A few times we had to back up. Then a truck with passengers passed us and he went like the devil, so Norbert stuck to his tail and we felt quite safe and made good progress. Along the way he stopped to pick up passengers and motioned for us to pass but Norbert told him he liked to follow him as his horn was a lot louder than ours and his bumper bigger and stronger. There were a few times were opposite traffic had to back up quite a way, but it was all done with smiles and jokes and without complaining. Wile looking for a parking spot in Celedin, the police escorted us to a parkero but the entrance was too low so we got an escort to another one were we did fit. So far the police here in Peru and for that matter in all the south american countries we have passed so far have been great and very helpful and always have a big smile for us. In Leimebamba the police were in a meeting and when I asked the young officer were to park, the whole detachment came out to guide us to a parking spot. We hope our good luck with police will continue. We are now in Cajamarca, again at a parkero right in the centre of  the historical town and within walking distance of everything. Today we did get propane, (we were out for the last 4 days) so now we can make our morning coffee, for the last 4 days Monica made our coffee and also boiled our eggs. There are lots of Propane stations but none had the fitting we needed. Also got the Peruvian SOAT insurance for one month at $15.00.
We are hesitating to go to the coast as it is nice and cool here in the mountains.
Hugs to all.
Norbert and Greti





It is a pass

He had to back up quite a way.


Going to market

after a 15 minute shower the roads turn in to rivers

do not ask about the smell

Knife and scissor sharpener

Sunday, February 16, 2014

We drove from Cuenca to Valle Dolid and from there to the border crossing Ecuador/Peru.
The drive over the mountains was hairy, as there was a lot of landslides and also road construction. Too bad that there are no advisories or warnings, all of a sudden you are in a lineup or axle deep in mud.  There were a few times where I held my breath, but Norbert did not have to get the chains out. We had to wash the Van before crossing the border as we were warned that we could not cross with a muddy car. We got our exit visa in 5 minutes, returned the car papers and were in Peru. Norbert helped the custom officer do the computer work, was done in 30 min.
Then we did our visa and nobody looked if the car had mud on it. It seems that border crossing from here on will be easier. Well we got though the border with a clean Van and were assured that in Peru the  road is paved.  It was paved for about 15 km. then back to construction and wash outs and the Blue Wonder is full of mud again. 
If Colombia was very friendly, Ecuador a little less, Peru even less. When asking for directions we get strange looks and have to ask a few time before getting an answer. The villages are poorer and have no churches or very poor churches. We see a lot of emaciated dogs and poorly treated animals.  Today Feb. 15th. We visited the ruins of Kuelap. Thy are only rivalled by  Matchu Pitchu and some dear say thy are better. Thy were very mice and the drive up was again spectacular and in places hairy. Met young ladies from Germany, England, USA and Belgium, thy are working here for 6 months helping to set up internet for tourism and teaching english and German.  The guide did not speak english so Norbert had to translate in to german and english. Local women do knit and spin wool, I went over and talked to some knitting ladies, and showed then my knitting, thy fell in love with my round needle and wanted to buy it from me. I ended up gifting them to one of them and the wool to the other.
Hugs to all.
Norbert and Greti 

PS. Thank you all for the birthday wishes, finally WiFi.
 Sorry no current pictures very slow internet.